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the tale of a shoe-aholic turned cobbler. wholecut loafers february 7th, 2012 my husband hates taking the time to bend over and tie his shoes in the morning, so he practically lives in his kenneth cole black loafers during the week. now that i have taken a pattern-making course, i decided to test my skills on a pair of wholecut loafers for my husband. my husband has a strange aversion to brown shoes for some reason, so he wasn’t super happy about the tobacco color i had picked. of course he didn’t know that i had picked that light color for these shoes as i had purchased some antiquing stains and were going to try my hand on a darker patina for the finished product. on the first fit test, my design came up too high on the sides and he was not even able to fit his foot through the opening to test the fit; the second fit test was a tad too loose (in full disclosure i also changed lasts between the first and the second fit test and had to start the taping of the last and the design all over again). the final result fit him well, and even though there were some nicks and cuts along the way, i am fairly happy with the outcome of this pair. tags: completed shoes , in progress , lessons learned , mens shoes posted in completed shoes , in progress , lessons learned , mens , uncategorized | 2 comments » upper making process: the mean form january 19th, 2012 in my previous post, i provided bullet points of individual aspects of a mean form diagram. this post outlines exactly how that mean form was created. upper making starts with pattern making. pattern pieces for shoe upper making come from what is called a “mean form”. traditionally, an upper maker would receive a “mean form” and a “technical specifications” drawing. the mean form details all of the lines needed for cutting out pattern pieces, while the technical specifications drawing provides the guidance on materials, colors, stitching, and any additional hardware or design elements needed. both the mean form and the technical specifications drawing can be extremely complicated, depending upon the type of shoe being made and/or the complexity in the design. for this exercise, i will be providing examples of a simple high heel pump that covers manyl of the basics. in creating a mean form, first the designer will tape up the last that they will be using to make the shoe with (see attached picture). it is very important to use the exact last as even small variances in heel height, toe box design, width, etc. can drastically change a pattern. once the entire last has been taped, the center line down the back of the heel and the center line down the vamp are marked. in men’s shoes, there are many more points that are marked before the designer starts “designing” but for the purposes of this exercise and for this example, only the heel height and vamp position are needed. for most average women’s sizes, the heel height is marked at 5.5cm up from the feather edge of the marked heel center line. men’s is typically 6.5cm, but as with anything there are sometimes exceptions. it is important to tape the entire last and not just one side, for some lasts are not symmetrical and therefore your pattern pieces for the lateral and the medial side might be different. for upper making, only the sides of the last need to be taped down to the feather edge. the shape of the sole is not needed for upper making. it will be needed later for the actual shoemaking. as the last that i am using is considered a symmetrical last, and this pattern was intended to be symmetrical, the mean form for this pattern only has a slight difference in the length between the lateral and medial sides in the center of the mean form. now the designer can draw their design directly onto the taped last. once the designer is happy with his/her design lines, it is now time to convert this 3d model into the 2d mean form. *it is also helpful to go ahead and draw the medial center seam placement line onto the design while the tape is still on the last because it gives the designer a better idea of where it might be best hidden from view while wearing the shoe on the foot. using the marked center lines cut the tape with a sharp knife, both at the heel and down the center of the vamp. slowly pull off both sides separately, starting at the heel. trying to preserve the form as much as possible, flatten each side of the tape to a piece of cardstock or poster paper. the heel line, center vamp line, and design lines are most important to preserve and not wrinkle. smooth out with a bone folder, ruler, handle of knife, etc. the areas outside of the design lines of the shoe are less important, so if there are wrinkles, they should be directed there as they have no bearing on the formation of the patterns. mark each side with the last model name and/or #, the size of the last, the name of your design if applicable, and the date. now cut out both sides that have been flattened on the poster board and mark the medial side with a “^” somewhere along the lasting allowance line. never mark a pattern with any tick marks on the design itself. indicating which piece is the medial side will be very important later. do not cut completely out, but rather cut 5-6cm lengths of the drawn design within the cut out side portion of the 2d taped last model. these cut out lines will be used in the creation of the mean form and later in the pattern pieces. make sure that the 5.5cm heel height and center vamp lines are clearly marked on both pieces. these two marks will be used as guidance in creating the mean form. get a clean piece of card stock, slightly bigger than one of the taped last pieces so that you have enough space to include lasting allowance around the bottom and toe area, and to slightly modify the heel lines. trace one of the taped last pieces onto the card stock with a pencil, making sure to mark which one is the medial side with the tick mark “^” noted earlier. in addition, trace all of the cut design lines (use the tip of your lead pencil or any thin and sturdy object – but also dull so as not to cut the cardstock – to open up the cut lines so the lead pencil will fit through the hole and make a mark). i prefer to use colored pencils at this stage so that it is easy to detect the lateral side lines from the medial side lines. once all of the lines have been copied, flip the other taped last piece over so that the toes are facing the same direction as the piece previously traced, and line up the back heel height point with the center of the vamp center line point and trace all lines like before. at this point, one must take into consideration the materials chosen for this design before altering the lines. for example, leather stretches and has some give whereas tape does not. therefore, it would not make sense to use the same lines everywhere as we want to use of this stretch to our advantage and not end up with excess material that could cause wrinkles in our final product, nor do we want to end up with excess waste. however, if a non-stretchy material such as satin was chosen for the upper, then the lines would need to more closely mimic the lines drawn on the tape. first, create your new heel line. the standards that i have learned are to divide the heel line from the feather edge up to the marked 5.5cm heel height (not the top of the last) into thirds. at the heel height, measure 2mm up and 2mm in. this is your new top heel point. the first third line down from the heel height stays the same. from the 2/3 line, measure 2mm out and mark this measurement. these are your new heel curve points. draw a new heel curve, connecting those new three marked spots and from the 2/3 point down, exaggerate the curve slightly more than the original shape of the last itself. extend the curve a minimum of 14mm to account for the lasting allowance. from your new top heel point, draw a straight line at a 90 degree angle from the heel curve and measure 4-5mm in. [later, you will use th

URL analysis for candicobbler.com

http://candicobbler.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/img_2198.jpg
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Domain Name: CANDICOBBLER.COM
Registry Domain ID: 1559019861_DOMAIN_COM-VRSN
Registrar WHOIS Server: whois.godaddy.com
Registrar URL: http://www.godaddy.com
Updated Date: 2014-03-14T14:40:00Z
Creation Date: 2009-06-12T19:56:03Z
Registry Expiry Date: 2019-06-12T19:56:03Z
Registrar: GoDaddy.com, LLC
Registrar IANA ID: 146
Registrar Abuse Contact Email: [email protected]
Registrar Abuse Contact Phone: 480-624-2505
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Domain Status: clientUpdateProhibited https://icann.org/epp#clientUpdateProhibited
Name Server: PDNS01.DOMAINCONTROL.COM
Name Server: PDNS02.DOMAINCONTROL.COM
DNSSEC: unsigned
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  REGISTRAR GoDaddy.com, LLC

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  SERVER com.whois-servers.net

  ARGS domain =candicobbler.com

  PORT 43

  TYPE domain

DOMAIN

  NAME candicobbler.com

  CHANGED 2014-03-14

  CREATED 2009-06-12

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  PDNS02.DOMAINCONTROL.COM 173.201.78.50

  REGISTERED yes

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